For a place too unconventional for a street address, the underground Coldroom sure has a lot of rules (see website). Once you’re buzzed through the unmarked metal door (cheekily marked “sortie”), you’ll be expected to be polite, respectful, patient and welldressed. Compliance has its rewards, in this case a sur-mesure cocktail crafted with homemade bitters, infused simple syrups and shrubs.
TRY: THE BLACK BEAR ROAD, A MANHATTAN UPDATED WITH BUFFALO TRACE BOURBON, LILLET, LAPHROAIG, HONEY AND COCOA.
Photo: TOM SCULLY & JORDAN MATTIA