A landmark Montreal institution since 1980. Under chef Marc-Antoine Lacasse (previously of Toqué! and Au Pied de Cochon), L’Express sets the standard for classic French bistro dining. The à la carte menu remains unchanged, though seasonal additions are found on the daily specials. Classics endure: fish soup, bone marrow with fleur de sel, veal kidneys in mustard sauce and hanger steak with shallot butter and frites. Service is ultra-professional. The francophile wine list is extensive and reasonably priced. There’s no sommelier — trust your server.