“Mother” here means the starter that gives life to all the fresh fermentations bubbling away in the cellar, which lend lip-smacking complexity to cocktails and small bites. Here, on the cozy margins of Trinity Bellwoods, you’ll find solace in a drink menu that purports to be inspired by collective childhood memories and other human connections.

TRY: Motherland Old Fashioned, made with coconut-infused rye, saffron, sweet potato and seasonal-fruit ferments