Nowadays Montreal’s Hasidim share their Mile End neighbourhood with a new breed of fellow, long-bearded men in uniform called hipsters—and Hotel Herman is their new foodie temple. To be clear, it is not a hotel, but a happening restaurant. It’s where the nocturnal Mile End crowd can hang out and listen to vinyl records because, of course, there is a turntable near the entrance. And did we mention that there are plenty of natural wines on the menu? But besides those clichés, and the fact that around the central wooden bar, in the room full of wood panels, there are plenty of retro metal chairs and tattooed customers (and waiters), Hotel Herman is a wonderful restaurant. The small-plates focused cuisine is delightfully simple, yet sophisticated, and influenced by the contemporary northern European cooking of the moment. You see it in beautifully presented dishes like foie gras with sweet corn and cipollini onions, or Brussels sprouts with bone marrow and beef tendon, a new classic.