Very few contemporary restaurants still require men to dine in jackets. Fewer still are located in the countryside. And even on that tiny list, Langdon Hall stands out for something else: nobody minds. The elegance of the hotel and its setting are that compelling, the dining experience succeeds on many levels. A commitment to old-world service and luxury never strays to pretention. And the food on the plate is modern in sensibility and execution. In summer, menus are complemented with exceptional produce from the hotel garden—and the vegetarian dishes are a notable strong point. The menu is heavy on expected delicacies. Think foie gras with raisin purée and hazelnut crumble, or langoustine and scallops with cauliflower pudding and sea buckthorn. Or a main course of milkpoached veal with sweetbreads, salsify and truffle. Save room for dessert and cheese, followed by a fireside digestif.