At Chez Jean-Paul, the menu shifts continuously. Chef-owner Isaël Gadoua, of Joe Beef and Paloma, offers a nine-course tasting menu, the clearest expression of his seasonal, tightly composed cooking, alongside an à la carte option. Dishes — like Rimouski sea urchin, parfait and raw, in a butter recalling Sunday roast chicken; and aged Arctic char, skin crisp, flesh near-raw, in a sharp orange sauce with trout roe — show a precise, confident hand. The room is intimate, the team tight-knit, and the experience finely tuned.