Mitsuhiro Kaji has been expertly slicing up fish on a grim stretch of The Queensway near Islington Avenue for nearly two decades. The locale seems odd for a fellow that everyone agrees has the best Japanese restaurant in town. But then, that title is also what keeps him there; when you’re the best, people come to you. A renovation a few years back rendered the restaurant much brighter—and more importantly, vastly expanded the seating at the sushi bar, which is where you want to sit for your omakase menu. Expect fatty kampachi (jackfish), firm Spanish mackerel and tender sea bream, all flown in from Japan. Portuguese octopus is impeccably tender. Belly of yellowtail is sweet and fatty. When in season, spot prawns will be served still wrigging. The hot kitchen rounds out the experience beautifully with items like chawanmushi with crab, poached monkfish liver and the like. The omakase come in various lengths and prices, but the longest is never too much. Sake selection is adequate.